This is a recreation of Robert perdziola’s 2001 Shakespeare theatre Company design of Julia from Duchess of Malfi.
The recreation took place in a costume technology class at Virigina Commonwealth university.
AS an exploration of sleeve manipulation, I had several attempts at this sleeve. Each time, I focused on the different consquences of grading with the slash and spread method, pleating v.s. gathering, and manipulation of the fabric to create the sculpted mutton shape of the sleeve. THere is a fitted sleeve base underneath the outer sleeve for a comfortable wear and longevity of the sculpt.
THe end sleeve is a pleated back armscye that curves around to a gathered top and front armscye. With a few intentional tacks, the sculpt of the sleeve is formed. The fullness of the bicep tapers down to a fitted forearm.
The bodice is a fitted boned bodice with coutil inner structure, piped seams, hem tabs, and lacing in the back. The sculpted front neckline detailing and the back collar are created from sculpting a bias tube.
THe skirt portion consists of an underskirt, an overskirt, and a peplum layer. The overskirt peels back to reveal the underskirt.
Tallie Pugh 